About glue: I use tacky glue for almost all of my projects. I use it instead of a glue gun because I don't like the strings or the fumes from the gun, AND because tacky glue allows you TIME TO REARRANGE if you don't get things perfect at first. Extra thick tacky glue (like Aleene's thick designer tacky) will hold ALMOST as fast as the low temp gun glue, but will still allow you some rearrange time.
If you prefer the glue gun, by all means use it. Just be aware that some materials (like doll hair and twisted paper) may tear or tangle if you try to pull them loose after they are glued.
Painting eyes: On most of my designs, the eyes are a series of smaller and smaller circles. One CAN paint these with a paint brush, but it's far easier and faster to "stamp" them with round objects. I generally use an old pencil with the eraser worn down flat for the largest (white) circle.
For the next sized (blue-or other eye color) circle, I use a newer pencil with a smaller eraser. For the next sized (black circle) I use the handle end of a large paint brush and I use a toothpick end for the small white dot.
The colored circles can be centered on the bottom of the white circle, or can be slightly to one side. The white dot should be off center in the black circle.
To stamp the circles: dip the round object in paint and WITHOUT WIPING ANY PAINT OFF stamp once, smoothly, to make the complete circle. If you want an oval eye, stamp the white circle twice, overlapping one above the other.PRACTICE STAMPING ON PAPER FIRST to get a feel for how much paint to use and what object you have that will make which sized circles.
Make sure you LET EACH CIRCLE DRY COMPLETELY before you stamp the next color. If you are in a hurry, dry with a hair dryer on low.
When the dots are all stamped and dry, draw a line as shown with a fine tip, permanent, black marker. This suggests both eye lid and lashes, and adds character and expression to the face. Experiment on paper. The length and slant of the line can really change the expression.
"Tying" bows. Bows are used on many craft items. For bows made from narrow materials, that are a reasonable size to handle, I just tie a bow like I was tying my shoes. But if the material is wide (more than about an inch) or if the bow is very big or small, the following method is easier and will produce a flatter, better looking bow:
Cut the material to be used the appropriate length. Cut ends straight or on a slant as desired. Overlap the ends as shown below. Bring the middles of all pieces together and pinch them together into a bow shape. Tie them together at the center point. Pull the ends downward and arrange the "bow" until you are pleased with the shape. If ends aren't quite straight, trim slightly.
About my patterns: In most of my designs I try to suggest many options. I do this because that is the way I like to craft. I've probably never followed a whole pattern exactly in my life (I cook the same way too, never follow recipes exactly). I really encourage you to "personalize" the designs as suits you.
IF, HOWEVER, the options confuse (or annoy) you, just ignore them and use the first choice given.
About copyrights: My designs ARE copyrighted. But you have permission for production for your personal use. I even give permission for production for LIMITED, LOCAL SALES provided you are not overlapping my sales area of central AZ. Please give me credit for the designs if asked.
Do not, however, produce to wholesale or sell nationally. The pattern may NOT be reproduced, except for your personal use.
Click below to go to the pattern pages:
Contact Leslie (Instructor) directly at:
lprest@netzone.com
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